Tour d'Argent

La Tour d'Argent (The Silver Tower) is a restaurant in Paris, France.

The restaurant's own site claims that it was founded in 1582 and frequented by Henri IV. However, neither the restaurant nor any cabaret, inn, etc. at that site, nor its supposed founder (Rourteau) appear to be mentioned in any period source.

Frédérick Delair and the Numbered Duck

Under the helm of this headwaiter turned owner of the Tour d'Argent in the middle of the 19th century, table service took on a whole new dimension. Frédéric imposed the carving of a duck on the end of a fork without allowing it to touch the platter. He codified the recipe of the "pressed duck" or "duckling" as we know it today, and he was so certain of the durability of his endeavor that in 1890 itself he decided to give a number to each duck served.

The Origins of the Duck

The origins of the famous duck date back to the reign of Philip IV of Spain, in 1650. Spanish emigrants arrived on the Vendée coast.

They captured a great many wild ducks in the marshlands and domesticated them. The inhabitants of these marshlands, known as "maraîchins", have continued to breed this duck, today, well known as the Challandais duck.

It is bred along the marshlands stretching some 20 miles along the Atlantic coast and about 10 miles inland in the northern part of the Vendée region.

This region is perfectly suited to duck breeding, thanks to its climate, its marshy soil and the water from the canals running from the Loire River and the Lac de Grand Lieu.

For almost sixty years La Tour d'Argent has bought its precious ducks exclusively from the Burgaud family in Challans.

The Duck Tour d'Argent

If there is an emblematic dish of the House, this is the one. Invented in 1890 by Frédéric Delair, it is numbered and served according to a celebrated ritual. The millionth duck was served at the Tour d'Argent in 2003.

The duck is half wild, raised by the house of Burgaud in Challans in the Vendée region of France, and prepared in the dining room by a canardier, a duck carver. Its carcass is pressed and exudes its last drop of flavor into the sauce to which is added a dash of Cognac, lemon and Madeira. The aiguillettes or wings are delicately removed and cooked to perfection separately upon a hotplate.

The Pommes Soufflées, sophisticated twice fried potatoes and grilled legs are served separately.

DUCK TOUR D'ARGENT

Probably the most spectacular classical French recipe, le canard à la presse, here made at La Tour d'Argent, a Paris restaurant open since the16h century.

Consommé is added to the press to help get the canard's liquefied innards out.

A glass of Fine the Champagne is added, then the sauce is salted and peppered.

The sauce is mixed, heated a little, then filtered using a fine chinois.

They let the sauce reduce on a flame until it thickens. I believe the blood coagulates and gives it its blackish, heavy texture.

The magrets are served covered in the sauce. The ducks' thighs continue to cook while you eat and they come in a second service, without sauce.

Finally, the bill comes. At lunch this dish costs about 70€ per person, not as expensive as some people think but still a rather pricey meal. Dinner time is much more expensive I'm told. The restaurant's location, view and decor and just unbeatable. You have to come once.